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Autumn is the season of cozy evenings, warm sweaters, and the comforting aroma of spices filling the house. When leaves are swirling outside the window, there is hardly anything better than warming up with a glass of fragrant mulled wine. In Moldova, this drink has a long tradition and even has its own local names: “vin fiert” and “izvar.”
Although both terms essentially refer to heated or mulled wine, there is a subtle difference between the two. Vin fiert is the classic European-style mulled wine, where red wine is gently heated with orange slices, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and honey. Izvar, on the other hand, is a more traditional Moldovan variation with deep rural roots. Izvar is often made by heating wine with homemade honey, a generous pinch of ground black pepper, dried berries or apples, and sometimes even a small piece of butter for extra smoothness. It is the perfect drink for taking the chill out of a crisp autumn evening.
But if you want your hot wine to turn out just right, it all starts with choosing the right wine.
The golden rule: skip the expensive, aged wines
One of the most common mistakes is reaching for a premium wine aged in oak barrels. Once heated, its complex bouquet and delicate notes of vanilla and oak can fade, while the oak tannins may become noticeably bitter. For both izvar and vin fiert, it is much better to choose young, fruit-forward wines with moderate acidity and soft tannins.
The best Moldovan grape varieties for the perfect mulled wine
Moldova’s winemaking heritage is a real treasure trove for anyone who loves a warming drink. Here are a few grape varieties that work especially well in a mug of mulled wine:
- Rară Neagră: An absolute favorite for izvar. This authentic Moldovan variety has a light to medium body, plenty of freshness, and expressive red-fruit notes of sour cherry, cranberry, and currant. It is not heavy, so the finished drink remains easy to sip, wonderfully aromatic, and full of character.
- Merlot: A classic choice that never lets you down. Moldovan Merlot is known for its velvety texture, soft palate, and notes of ripe plum and cherry. It works beautifully with spices, balancing their intensity and giving the drink a smooth, rounded character.
- Saperavi: If you prefer your vin fiert rich, intense, and deeply colored, this is the variety to reach for. It brings a deep ruby color, plenty of body, and rich berry flavors that pair especially well with black pepper, cinnamon, and cloves.
- Fetească Neagră: Another wonderful local variety with plenty of personality. Expect notes of dried plum, blackberry, and a subtle spicy character that naturally echoes the warm spices in the drink.
What about white izvar?
Although mulled wine is traditionally made with red wine, white vin fiert is a wonderfully refreshing twist for the colder months. Local varieties such as Fetească Albă and Fetească Regală, as well as Riesling, work particularly well.
Heat the white wine with slices of green apple, a cinnamon stick, fresh ginger, honey, and a slice of lemon. The result is lighter, fresh, gently spiced, and wonderfully elegant.
A quick checklist before you head to the store:
- Choose a dry or off-dry wine. It is always easier to adjust the sweetness with honey to your taste while preparing the drink.
- Aim for an alcohol level of around 11–13%.
- Do not boil the wine! Heat it to around 70–75°C (158–167°F) and keep it below a simmer to preserve its aromas and character.
A few more secrets to the perfect autumn drink
How to pair spices with different wine styles
The goal is for the spices to complement the wine rather than overpower it. A little balance goes a long way:
- For lighter wines (Rară Neagră, Fetească Albă): Go for fresh, delicate accents such as green apple, citrus zest, a cinnamon stick, a little fresh ginger, and light-colored honey.
- For fuller-bodied wines (Saperavi, Fetească Neagră): You can be more generous with the spices: cloves, star anise, nutmeg, allspice, and black pepper are a great match.
A simple step-by-step izvar ritual
- Prepare the base: Pour the wine into an enamel saucepan or a heavy-bottomed pot.
- Add the spices: Add whole spices such as cinnamon, cloves, and star anise. Avoid ground spices. They can make the drink cloudy and leave an unpleasant sediment.
- Heat gently: Warm the wine over low heat. Once the first wisps of steam appear, at around 70°C (158°F), remove the pot from the heat.
- Let it infuse and serve: Add the honey and black pepper if you are making izvar. Cover with a lid and let the drink infuse for 7–10 minutes. Strain, then pour into thick-walled glasses or ceramic mugs.
The secret is not to rush
A good izvar does not need to be complicated. You do not need rare ingredients, an expensive aged wine, or a dozen different spices. What matters much more is choosing a young, aromatic wine with a good fruity character, warming it gently, and giving the spices enough time to release their flavors.
And perhaps that is the real secret of Moldovan mulled wine: it warms you up with more than just its temperature. It carries the aroma of autumn, the warmth of spices, the comfort of home, and that wonderful feeling of holding a warm mug of spiced wine while it is cold outside.
So pick your favorite wine, bring out the cinnamon and honey, and let autumn begin with a little extra flavor.
